Pearl Oyster Bar

http://www.pearloysterbar.com/

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I finally did it. After three years of living in Manhattan, and a lifetime of living in its outer boroughs, I made it to Pearl Oyster Bar for what I agree to be the best Lobster roll that I have had yet.

I wanted desperately to be disappointed, mostly because of its hefty price tag at $25 a pop, but also because I secretly wanted to go against the grain and challenge all of the patrons who sing its praises. Alas, I am now one with the masses. It is great if not superb.

Hearty chunks of lobster meat are mixed with a dripping dose of seasoned mayonnaise and served atop a warm, toasted, doughy hot dog bun and garnished with a mountainous heap of shoestring French fries. Not using the malt vinegar that was served on the side was my only regret of the meal.

In order to offset the fat fest between the mayo and the French fries, we started with a heaping pot of steamers, which were not only fresh for October but impeccably cleaned. I didn’t taste the slightest bit of ocean sandiness that usually makes its way into the pot.

To accompany the lobster roll, we also spoiled ourselves with special of the day -- a tender, flaky pan seared cod over a bed of pan fried brussel sprouts and mixed minced vegetables. Though the vegtables were a tad buttery, I was not complaining.

Given the gluttons that we are, we topped off the meal with scoop of vanilla ice cream over a warm and flaky blueberry apple cobbler with a deliciously crispy and equally sweet crumble topping.

The ambiance isn’t much — a uniform set of wooden tables and chairs are sectioned to the right of a long oak bar that greets patrons upon entry. It is well placed given the long waits that ensue from their no reservation policy.

Crispo

http://www.crisporestaurant.com/

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I have been familiar with Crispo for quite some time now. I heard recommendations from friends, read reviews on the internet, passed by when I lived in the hood, and glanced over the menu countless times while procrastinating at work. Yet still, I did not go. I don’t know why I didn’t. I love Italian food; I especially love good Italian food, but I always opted for the alternative when choosing a dinner location.

That changed last Saturday when I finally had run out of excuses (and available restaurants at the last minute — reservations are surprisingly easier to come by here). Our dinner was a taste of past months spent in Italy, feasting on cured meats and oven roasted game.

The restaurant was buzzing, even at 7:30 — early for a Saturday night in New York. The style is an earthy mix of terra cotta and wood, with an impressive oak bar that further enhanced the rustic vibe. The open kitchen in the back and the sunken booths lining the room (with curtains for privacy) add to the intimacy of the space. These would be very fitting for large groups seeking semi-private dining.

Mouthwatering, delicate and remarkably creamy slices of Bresaola sat beneath thinly sliced artichokes and apples and parmesan cheese. A Prosciutto dish followed suit and a Fig Carpaccio with gorgonzola cheese, walnuts and endive looked supreme, and rounded out a winning selection of appetizers.

Next arrived a crisp chicken alla diavola, cooked under a hot brick with a slight kick from what I assumed to be a paprika-based spice. The dish was topped with a bittersweet pomegranate sauce and the meat itself was tender and flavorful enough to pass for all dark meat. The seared duck breast with a port wine reduction and fresh figs, melted off the bone — passing for one of the most remarkably prepared duck breasts that we may have ever had. The ricotta gnocchi with braised duck and a fontina béchamel sauce was expectedly decadent, but also memorable, with the grilled shrimp and sausage being the weakest of the entrees. While the shrimp and sausage were both well cooked (and shrimp is often overly done) the sweet flavors of the sausage were not the right compliment to the char-grilled shrimp, according a fellow diner.

The cappuccinos that topped off the meal were noteworthy, and another reason why I most certainly will be back.

Also to note: On warmer nights there is a back garden and a carriage house for private events.

Fulton

http://www.fultonnyc.com/

A nod to the wholesale Fulton Street fish market, this Upper East Side newcomer honors the tradition with a wonderfully fresh seafood-focused menu. The atmosphere is warm, with soft leather banquettes, dark wood accents, exposed brick and wrought iron candelabra-inspired chandeliers.

The owners have a background in simple but elegant dining, running the upscale supermarket chain Citarella — a favorite among New Yorkers of the gourmet variety. I ventured here earlier this week and was pleasantly surprised by the caliber of fish, the variety of options and the understated elegance of the space.

I think the first hint should have been the reservation list- booked solid for a Wednesday night forcing us to take the 6:15 slot. Good thing I snuck out of work early or I would have been sorry to miss this newbie. While the crowd leaned toward the older side, I foresee it becoming increasingly popular among the thirty-something scene once word catches on.

To start, our dining selections included a familiar but welcome Jumbo shrimp cocktail, grilled sardines served over a panzanella salad and topped with micro basil, a plain but nonetheless satisfying green salad with herbed dressing and the hit (and my personal selection), an expertly grilled octopus served atop a bed of thinly sliced potatoes and topped with chermoula- a light paste made from what I believe to be a mix of parsley, coriander, onion and garlic. The dish was finished with crispy frisee, and a lip-smacking smile.

Next came the main dishes. A perfectly pan seared halibut was tender on the inside and complimented nicely by a mix of rock shrimp, chanterelles and Japanese artichokes -- finished with a light shrimp sauce. The pompano was plain grilled and served with do-it-yourself seasonings including salt, pepper and olive oil. The grouper was also perfectly pan seared, sitting amidst a wild mushroom and cockle filled broth and complimented nicely with a bed of sea beans. It was a little heavy on the salt, but I think that was inevitable given the shellfish broth.

As a side, the caramelized brussel sprouts sautéed in butter and olive oil was the perfect melt-in-your-mouth accompaniment, and if we had had room for dessert, the doughnut trio of espresso, chocolate-chili and raspberry was very enticing.

Overall, Fulton is a welcome addition to the Upper East Side, which has seen a string of mediocre openings in the past few month, and a nice change of pace from Atlantic Grill, Turquoise or some of the other local Seafood standbys.

Park Avenue Autumn

http://www.parkavenyc.com/

Not long after my first encounter with the “Park Avenue” Restaurants, I was back for another season (for those unfamiliar with the restaurant's shtick, the menu and decor change with the weather patterns). This time autumn was in the air and on the table. Rich flavors of pumpkin and cinnamon graced the meal from the very first bite.

On arrival, I was disappointed to learn that we would be sitting in the back room. I highly recommend you request the main dining room when making a reservation. The food was still superb but the ambiance lacks in style anywhere else.

Though charming and rustic, with natural wood and bark accents, and glass windows revealing what reminded me of pilgrim or early American artifacts, the back area did not compete with the copper and gold cloaked main room. Deep chocolate upholstered wall hangings mix nicely with copper lanterns and roped wood ceiling beams, creating an elegant and festive eating space.

All of my ill will melted away at the first bite of miniature caramel apples sprinkled with cinnamon -- the perfect amuse bouche to kick start the season. Next came fig Carpaccio -- rows of thinly sliced fig sprinkled with Hoja Santa goat cheese were so rich in flavor and so sweet on the tongue, I felt guilty having dessert before dinner (and wished this had been my order).

The salmon tartar, listed on the seasonal specialties menu was also a hit, as was the autumn haystack — a mix of crispy rock shrimp and crunchy julienned vegetables including sweet potato slices (though a bit heavy on the cilantro, even for me). The accorn-fed Iberian ham with grilled cheese toast was disappointing, according to a dining partner. He was expecting an interesting twist on a grilled ham and cheese sandwich, and was instead served prosciutto with a béchamel covered toast on the side. Though the quality was good, the inventiveness left much to be desired and the crusty bread lacked flavor even with the cheesy topping.

The Halibut with brioche poached egg was as always wonderful, especially after puncturing the syrupy yolk and watching it infuse its way into the delicate flavor of the fish. However the real highlight of the meal was the thick-cut veal chop topped with herbed breadcrumbs and garlic that would make even the pickiest meat eater swoon. The dish was also complimented by a heavenly mix of chanterelles and royal trumpet mushrooms. This was the perfect topping for a rich and truly decadent experience.

On the side, unusual flavor combinations like miso glazed brussel sprouts and broccoli and Cheetos were successes, along with sweet potato cottage fries served with a homemade ranch dressing that will convert any dieter to the dark side.

Supersol

In honor of the Rosh Hashanah holiday, I would like to let everyone in on a little secret called Supersol. My dad’s side of the family is kosher and relies heavily on this caterer/ Jewish food Mecca for all of their pre-prepared needs.

The Manhattan location, on 92nd Street and Amsterdam is a mob scene around the Jewish New Year, and even worse on Passover as Jewish Manhattanites are cleaning out their pantries to keep Kosher for the holiday.

For years, I grew up eating their sweet and sour meatballs and their gefilte fish. In fact, this is the only gefilte fish that I can truly enjoy. I have come to eat the other varieties out of tradition rather than taste.

What is gefilte fish you might ask? It is relatively unfamiliar to those outside the Jewish cultural community.

I would compare this holiday delicacy to a fish meat loaf of sorts. It is made of small ground fish, of which carp is the main ingredient. The mixture is then combined with onions and flour, matzoh meal and stuffed back into the deboned fish. It is poached and served with a heaping chunk (in my case) of horseradish. I think the horseradish cuts very nicely with the sweetness of the fish without overpowering the flavor.

I like Supersol for its dense, yet not oily texture and sweet flavor. Recently, as I have expanded my kosher cuisine horizons, I have found that standard variety gefilte fish is typically savory over sweet, so Supersol's version is a welcome treat around the holidays!

However, the meatballs are really the reason I keep Supersol under wraps. As a child, my aunts Millie and Elaine typically offered me a choice of having these meatballs or gefilte fish as an appetizer to the main course. I think this is the reason that it took me so long to appreciate gefilte fish; I was opting for the meatballs again, and again, and again, and then more for the next night.

The kosher meat lends itself to dense and flavorful meatballs, swimming in a rich tomato based sauce with delicate hints of vinegar and brown sugar, and with plump raisins for added sweetness and texture.

They are small in size which makes them perfect holiday appetizers or in my case, perfect for appetizers all year round. Preorder for holiday meals, but don’t tell too many people, there will be none left for last minute additions!

P.S. Kosher does mean pricier, but I assure you that it is well worth the splurge, if only for the holidays.

Angelo of Little Italy

http://www.angelomulberry.com/

I had never REALLY been to Little Italy until after I graduated college. Growing up in New York, I may have been one of the few youths whose parents didn’t take them downtown to Mulberry’s colorful, albeit touristy, row of Italian restaurants and bakeries. Tuxedo-clad hosts beckon passers by, claiming: “Just like Italy.”

Little Italy is not Italy. Comparing the two is a futile battle.

Indeed, the intersection of Mulberry and Grand is over-the-top, tacky, crowded, especially during the summer months. But, I think that is part of the charm. Sure, there are more bad restaurants than good ones, and the prices aren’t cheap, but if you do your homework or read The Gabby Gourmand you can pick out one of the gems.

Angelo of Mulberry is one of these shining standbys. Hearty bowls of pasta, enough to feed an army of ten, are scurried around the restaurant. Heaping plates of mussels and baked clams also make their way to the tables. This is true Italian-American in all its glory.

Bring your patience and your appetite. You will have to wait since there are no reservations but the host is charming enough to make the crowded bar seem reasonable. When you do finally make it to the table, expect the usual local-Italian suspects. By this I mean Petti Di Polio Alla Parmigiana or chicken parmesan, Scaloppine Di Vitello Al Tuo Gusto or veal marsala, and Rigatoni Alla Vodka.

Last night, our selections included an endless bowl of mussels, cleaned very well I might add, and sautéed in a spicy marinara sauce with whole cloves of garlic and soaked hunks of Italian bread.

By the end of the dish, half the bread basket was used to wipe up the sauce and I was contemplating taking a pint home.

For our entree’s, we shared Veal Capricciosa -- a pounded and breaded veal chop fried and topped with a chopped tri-color salad, and Chicken Scarpariello -- chunks of chicken pan sautéed with garlic and vinegar. Both were tender and not the least bit greasy. The chicken was exceptionally moist, unusual for a dish that typically tends to dry out quickly. The veal was the highlight of the meal though. This is partially because it is one of my all-time favorite Italian specialties, but also because the fried crust was surprisingly light and allowed for the rich flavors of the veal to shine through. The salad was a wonderful accompaniment, with a lite vinaigrette dressing, though I did manage to sneak some marinara sauce on top too. I couldn't get enough!

My one complaint regarding the veal was that the meat closer to the bone was undercooked. However, by that time I was too full to complain.

We left no room for dessert, so I cannot attest to the selection but I think I would have finished off with an order of spedini if I threw body image to the wind. Fried slices of mozzarella in a homemade tomato sauce can serve as dessert any day of the week.

I want to note that the tables are tight and the acoustics are loud, but the back room —with only tables of two — is a quieter escape, or else come with a party. When in Rome! (Literally!)

Perilla

http://www.perillanyc.com/

Perilla’s unassuming façade sits on a quiet block in the west village, nestled between Bleeker and West Fourth Street. If you didn’t know better, you would walk right by. Good thing we knew enough to make a reservation. My friend Lauren’s birthday dinner last night was a truly warm and flavorful occasion.

The space is rather small and narrow but does not feel overly crowded. Perhaps this is because of the mix of small tables and big round booths that line the walls, allowing for ample room to walk down the middle of the restaurant and opening up the space. Decor is simple, light wood, with art deco accents -- starbursts of tiny light bulbs shine down on the room and the store front is lined with large open windows that enhance its whimsical, airy vibe. White and burgundy calla lilies are placed in the window and on the bar, a reminder to patrons of the understated beauty in both the food and the space itself.

Since it is on the pricey side, I would recommend this spot for a date or special occasion among friends. The quality is truly worth it and the unique flavor combinations are reason alone to visit. Case in point – edamame are ground into falafel balls with traditional Middle Eastern spices, fried and served with a lemon tahini. I practically licked the crumbs off the plate.

This was preceded by a wonderful light and crispy rock shrimp salad, topped with a mushroom soy vinaigrette -- heavier on the soy than the mushroom, much to the delight of my fungi-averse dining partners. Spicy duck meatballs were served in a sweet tomato broth spiked with chili pepper, and sprinkled with tiny potato gnocchi. The added kick from the pepper and the broth bath created an astonishingly light dish from traditionally heavy ingredients.

The Roasted Duckling with pickled fairytale (baby) eggplant, bulgur wheat, mulberries and verbena-fig puree was perfectly medium rare. The meat was tender if a bit chewy, though I presumed this was because of the large size of the cuts and not the gamey-ness of the meat. The bulger and berry combination was moist and delicate with hints of garlic and shallots that complimented the meat rather well and added a tart dimension to the dish that went nicely with the duck's sweet juices.

The Sauteed Triggerfish with quinoa, heirloom tomatoes, and sweet and sour eggplant-basil sauce was also moist, without being oily. The fish was delicate in texture, propped up on a bed of quinoa, whose nutty flavor enhanced the earthy qualities of the fish.

The Chocolate Tasting dessert plate was served with a trio of chocolate mousse, devil's food cake & chocolate peppermint sorbet. The sorbet, with natural mint flavoring, was the highlight of the dish. The chocolate mousse came tightly wrapped in a flaky pastry dough and the devils food cake was topped with a toasted marshmallow. Both were interesting in concept and presentation but lacked a little on flavor. I found myself lusting after the vanilla scented doughnuts at the next table.

All of the liquors are small (and unfamiliar) brand names but our waitress was helpful with the comparison to the premium vodkas we were used to, and the flavor was spot on.

The homemade oatmeal and golden raisin cookies that were served with the check put us over the edge, in a good way!